The Poignant Beauty of the Paigah Tombs

On the way to the Hyderabad airport, a small sign is gathering dust. Pointing towards the 235-year-old royal necropolis, Paigah Tombs, it is a sign of how off-the-radar this beautiful nesting ground of former aristocrats is. Although it is located just four kilometres from the famous Charminar, several locals are unaware of this architectural gem too. Read on as Mallik Thatipalli takes us on a virtual tour.

It is only ironical that while another necropolis in Hyderabad, the Qutb Shahi Tombs is vying for a UNESCO tag, the Paigah tombs are lost in wilderness. Centuries after they were built, these tombs still arrest the attention of the viewer right from the entrance, with its arched gateways, onion shaped domes and the lush canopies of decades-old mango and badam trees. An air of stillness fills the sky and you are transported into the times of the Nizams and Nawabs.

The Paigahs

The tombs are the private necropolis of the Paigah family. The Paigahs came to the Deccan along with Emperor Aurangzeb during his conquest of the region. The founder of the House of Paigah was Nawaz Abul Fatah Khan Tegh, also known as Shams-ul-Umra I. The Paigahs were the highest-ranking aristocrats after the ruler during the Nizam’s reign. 

Paigah was a honorific title bestowed by the second Nizam of Hyderabad. It is a word of Persian origin which means pomp and rank — the family had both in equal measure. Like in many aristocratic and royal families, they cemented ties with the Nizam through marriage which led to entrepreneurial success. 

The architecture is unique as it is an amalgamation of eight diverse styles – French, Italian, Greek, Turkish, Mughal, Rajput, Persian and Kakatiyan.

The Necropolis

Among the aristocracy of Hyderabad, it was considered to be a divine blessing to be buried in the area next to the grave of a pir or a saint because of the belief that the land was blessed. This site (initially spread over eight acres) was chosen due to its proximity to the dargah of the Sufi saint Burhane Shah, who came to India from Iraq and was buried in an open enclosure in 1655 in a nearby area. 

With 28 graves and simple crypts, the tombs exude grandeur through art, architecture and artisanship. The rows of scalloped arches, towering minarets, stucco work, a now-defunct mosque which seems to preen at its own reflection in a small water body, and the wrought iron benches transport you to a century or two into the past. 

The architecture is unique as it is an amalgamation of eight diverse styles – French, Italian, Greek, Turkish, Mughal, Rajput, Persian and Kakatiyan. No other place in the city boasts so many influences. It’s a mammoth complex, matchless in its design and intreguingly deviates from traditional Islamic architecture as the roofs are embellished with stucco ornamentation in the shapes of fruits, drums, flowers and even vases and serpents.

The extensive jaali work prevalent throughout the necropolis ensures that sunlight plays hide and seek all day. It is extensive, beautiful and unique. From the motifs of creepers and flowers, to the detailing, it showcases both masculine (geometric circles and stars) and feminine (foliage) designs of the Islamic architecture. 

The Tombs

Laid north to south and open to the sky, the tombs emulate the style of the mausoleum of Mughal emperor Aurangzeb. The tombstones are singular pieces of art, each embellished with colourful and intricate detailing. While some have chandeliers hung atop, others were, at one point in time, embedded with precious stones which changed colours with time. 

Among the aristocracy of Hyderabad, it was considered to be a divine blessing to be buried in the area next to the grave of a pir or a saint because of the belief that the land was blessed.

Most of the tombs have a marble chowkandi (small pavilion) over them, which was initially decorated with gems (and no longer there). The tombs of Khurshid Jah Paigah and his wife Hussian-Un-Nissa Begum were replicas of those made for Mumtaz Mahal and Shah Jahan.

Giving a peek of the craftsmanship of the past, the tombs are stunning works of art with some boasting stunning pietra dura inlay work on marble brought in from Makrana in Rajasthan (also used in the construction of Taj Mahal). Others are enclosed by ornate wooden doors made from teak and rosewood. 

The Future of the Necropolis

With centuries of history behind it and artisanship which is no longer available, it is shocking that these tombs share a story of neglect and disrepair. The worst are the encroachments which are a sore sight!

With parts of jaalis broken, electricity poles competing with the tombs, parts of walls caving in and plaster peeling on ceilings, it is in urgent need of conservation. At one point, there were even families living inside the tombs, showcasing the utter disregard for heritage and culture. Although recently attempts were made to reach out to artisans from Central Asia and Iran for restoration, they have come to a standstill due to the Covid crisis. The Paigah Tombs are historically important monuments which need to be saved for future generations as a gift and one hopes that future generations will be able to soak in their lingering beauty. 

1 comment

  1. I ɗo not even know how I ended up here, but I thought this post ԝas great.
    I do not know who yοu are but definitely you’re going to a famous
    blogger if уou aгe not already 😉 Cheers!

Leave a comment

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

8 Most Beautiful And Iconic Museums In the World

Intro: Museums aren’t just repositories of the past, they are architectural wonders thar breathe life into history, art, and culture. Some captivate you with their priceless collections, while others leave you spellbound with their design, atmosphere, or setting. From Paris to Doha, these museums are more than travel stops, they are destinations in themselves. Whether you are an art lover, a history buff, or a wanderer looking for beauty. DHANUSH KUMAR writes about eight iconic museums that promise a journey for both your mind and soul. 1.The Louvre-Paris, France The Louvre is the epitome of elegance, grandeur, and artistic legacy. Housed in a former royal palace, this museum in the world’s largest and arguably the most renowned. With over 35,000 words, including the Mona Lisa and Venus de Milo, it’s collection spans centuries and civilizations. The iconic glass pyramid designed by I.M. Pei blends modernist aesthetics with regal traditions, making the Louvre not just a museum, but a symbol of global culture Why visit: To witness masterpieces that shaped human civilization, inside a structure that blends imperial and contemporary brilliance. 2.The Vatican Museums- Vatican City Art, religion, and history converge in breathtaking fashion at the Vatican Museums. Spiraling through corridors rich with Renaissance frescoes and ancient sculptures, the journey culminates in the Sistine Chapel, where Michelangelo’s ceiling fresco stuns every onlooker. The Vatican Museums are not just a visual experience, they are spiritual, profound, and timeless. Why visit: To stand beneath the most iconic ceiling in the world and feel art’s divine energy. 3.The Guggenheim Museum-Bilbao, Spain An architectural revolution in itself, the Guggenheim Bilbao turned a sleepy industrial town into a global art capital. Frank Gehry’s titanium-clad design resembles a gleaming ship or a flower in bloom, depending on your angle. Inside, contemporary and modern art explode across vast,

Monsoon: Perfect National Parks In India

Intro: As the first raindrops kiss the parched earth and the skies turn dramatic with monsoon clouds, India’s national parks undergo a breathtaking transformation. Verdant landscapes, mist-draped forests, and gushing rivers make these natural havens come alive. While many assume the monsoon is off-season for wildlife, it’s actually the time when nature is at her most expressive. DHANUSH KUMAR writes about India’s most spectacular national parks to explore when it rains. Periyar National Park-Kerala Tucked in the heart of the Western Ghats, Periyar is an emerald paradise during the monsoon. Its namesake lake swells with rain, and mist curls around the cardamom hills. While tigers remain elusive, elephants, sambar deer, and wild boars roam freely across the dense terrain. Boat safaris offer a tranquil way to spot wildlife against a lush, rainy backdrop. Why Visit: For surreal boat rides through the rainforest and misty encounters with elephants. Valley Of Flowers National Park, Uttarakhand A UNESCO World Heritage site, this Himalayan treasure comes into full bloom from July to September. The monsoon awakens a riot of alpine flowers, over 500 species, including blue poppies, orchids, and daisies. Snow-fed streams, cascading waterfalls, and vibrant meadows create a landscape straight out a fairytale. Why Visit: To witness a living canvas of wildflowers blooming against snowcapped peaks. Kanha National Park, Madhya Pradesh While some central Indian parks close during peak monsoon, Kanha’s buffer zones remain open and offer a quieter, rain-soaked safari experience. The sal forests glisten with dew, and the entire landscape turns lush and alive. It’s also the inspiration behind Kipling’s The Jungle Book Why Visit: For a dreamy, less-crowded safari in one of India’s most beautiful tiger habitats. Silent Valley National Park-Kerala True to its name, Silent Valley is nature at its purest and quietest. Rain transforms this untouched rainforest into

Chenab Bridge: Redefining Railway Connectivity Across Kashmir

Intro: There are bridges, and then there are breakthroughs. The Chenab Bridge, rising like a myth from the rugged heart of Jammu and Kashmir, is not just India’s latest engineering marvel, it is a declaration. A promise. That no terrain is too tough, no dream too distant. DHANUSH KUMAR writes about the Chenab Bridge, the world’s tallest railway bridge, and how it is set to redefine connectivity across Kashmir-geographically, economically, and emotionally. Towering at 359 meters above the Chenab River, the Chenab Bridge is more than just a world record. It is a declaration that no mountain is too high, and no dream too distant. Spanning 1.3 kilometers across a formidable Himalayan gorge in Jammu’s Reasi district, this bridge forms the most breathtaking piece of the Udhampur-Srinagar-Baramulla Rail link project Designed to withstand earthquakes, high-velocity winds, and time itself, the bridge is India’s boldest move yet in making Kashmir accessible by rail. Built from 28,000 metric tons of steel, its elegant arch, resembling a drawn bow, is already spoken of in the same breath as the Eiffel Tower for good reason, it stands taller. Kashmir, Connected Like Never Before All-Season Access to the Valley The beauty of Kashmir has always come at a price, its remoteness. For decades, landslides, snowfalls, and seasonal blockades made consistent travel a dream. The Chenab bridge answers that dreams with steel certainty, offering all-weather, high-capacity rail access into the valley Tourism Reimagined From the snow-draped meadows of Gulmarg to the saffron-scented fields of Pampore, Kashmir has never lacked allure. But now, a family from Chennai, a photographer from Jaipur, or a writer from Delhi can board a train and roll effortlessly into a landscape that once felt like a fable. Design Meets Excellence Build under some of the most testing conditions of the planet, freezing

The Evolution of Bus Travel in India

Bus travel in India has transformed dramatically over the years. What once served primarily as a feeder mode of transport or even a basic long-distance travel option has evolved into a sophisticated industry. The rise of powerful luxury buses, coupled with the rapid development of highways, has fueled this remarkable growth. In Part 1 of this series, I explored the early changes in bus designs and operations. The last two decades, in particular, have been a thrilling period for bus travel in India. Memories of Long-Distance Buses Before 2000 Before diving into recent changes, let me take you back to the late 1990s. During 1999-2000, my daily observations included long-distance buses running between Mumbai and Mangalore operators like CPC and Ballal. These buses took about 24 hours to cover the route, often carrying bulky cargo on their roofs. At that time, the Mumbai-Pune Expressway was not yet operational, so these buses took routes passing through the outskirts of Mumbai, where I lived. These were all seater buses, and I often wondered how passengers could endure such long journeys sitting upright. The First Sleeper Bus Encounter – Early 2000s In the early 2000s, during a school outing to Mumbai’s Fort area, I spotted a unique bus operated by Paulo Holiday Makers from Goa. This bus had its entrance in the middle and featured a hybrid seating arrangement: one half with seats and the other half with sleeping berths aligned along the direction of travel, similar to Indian Railways’ side berths. Though I couldn’t enter the bus, it left a strong impression as the first sleeper bus I had ever seen. The body was built by a Goan manufacturer called Damodar. The Rise of Sleeper Buses (Mid-2000s to 2010) Fast forward a few years to around 2005, sleeper buses became more common,

You May Also Like

Connect with us